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Tru-Blu & 
Cane Browntoner

Jeff Fultz
PO Box 227
10360 Hwy 328
Reyno, AR 72462
(870) 769-2825
jeff@fultzrods.com

Ordering is easy, just send a check for the total with a note of what you would like and a shipping address (USPS) and I'll send your products ASAP!
(Sorry, I do not accept credit cards at this time)

Attention: Both Tru-Blu and the Browntoner are now sold in 16 oz. bottles. (Formerly sold in 8 oz. bottles) 

Tru - Blu
Nickle Silver Oxidizer - 8 oz. = $30 (S&H included)

I have put a lot of time and effort into formulating this solution. It was very important to me that this product be safe. Other bluing agents are formulated with poisons, carcinogens, and other dangerous chemicals. Although TRU – BLU is a chemical and standard caution should be taken, it is a much safer agent then what has been previously available (many agents can not even be readily shipped). Safety aside, the performance and ease of use are what really makes TRU – BLU different. As with any process, preparation is key. I suggest components be buffed to a matte finish with an abrasive of choice. I like to use 600 grit emery cloth. The part then needs to be cleaned off with lacquer thinner or acetone since some abrasives, especially steel wool contain oils. The part can now be immersed in to the bluing solution. I leave parts in for 60 seconds for a nice deep oxidation. The next step is to rinse in fresh water to stop the chemical reaction. The part can be immediately buffed with a soft cloth or paper towel. A clear coat should be used to regain a gloss finish. I use clear spray lacquer or clear spray acrylic but you could also dip the part in clear lacquer. Applying the clear coat will darken the finish somewhat.   

Cane Browntoner
Chemical oxidizer for bamboo rods - 8 oz. = $20 (S&H included)    

To color your rod blank, first sand the blank to final finish. DO NOT wipe the blank down with any solvent after sanding. (HINT - If you are coloring a rod that has been previously finished, use 0000 steel wool to buff the rod after the finish is removed.)

Use a paper towel, clean shop rag, small paintbrush, or foam trim brush to apply the product to the blank. (HINT – I use blue disposable shop towels to make one swipe down the blank.) Immediately wipe the product off with a clean rag or towel to achieve a light honey color. For darker colors (light browns to dark mahogany), leave the product on longer - up to one minute. For more controlled results use additional quick coats (wipe on – wipe off).

Allow the blank to dry overnight before applying any finish. I have experimented with different spar and urethanes varnishes and have not come across a finish that has not been compatible with this method of coloring.

If you find the blank to be too dark, lightly sand the blank with steel wool or fine grit paper. The color will only penetrate about .001”.

I mainly use this method when I make a replacement tip or section for a vintage rod. I have been able to successfully match any shade I’ve had to. If you don’t have a bucket (or two in my case) of cut off rod sections around, you can experiment with the product by using bamboo shish-kabob skewers available at most grocery stores.